Spinnaker Chocolate - 70% Madagascar (bar) - Sept. 18, 2022

Chocolate of the Day

Spinnaker Chocolate
70% Madagascar (bar)
Good ++
Weight: 1 oz. (28.3 g.) / 2 oz. (57 g.) in total bar
Calories: 120 calories (per label) in 1/2 bar
Cost: $10.00 for 1 bar
Purchased from: Spinnaker Chocolate, online order 

"Tonga soa" (welcome) to Day #6 of Chocolate and Madagascar Theme Week.

Today's 70% Madagascar (bar) was made by Spinnaker Chocolate (Seattle, WA).

Aroma notes for this bar included: chocolate (ganache); sweet, subtle, honey-ed floral; and diffuse light fruit (dried melon, jackfruit, mild tangerine, dried cacao fruit/pulp). In a re-tasting (several hours later), I experienced peach-mango fruit aroma notes.

This well-tempered chocolate had a smooth, relatively slow melt (at room temperature), allowing a rainbow of bright fruit flavors to unfold.

Flavor notes included rich cocoa, followed by a rapid blooming of a bouquet of tart-sweet fruits (sour cherry, jackfruit (pineapple, mango), sweet citrus, tart-sweet red and dark berry, other), that leveled off after about 10 seconds and lingered into the finish. 

After about a minute (long after swallowing this chocolate) there were two fleeting, barely-there chocolate (very faint, balanced earth and warm spice) notes--revealed after the fruit flavors had receded. (Later in the day, after the bar had been opened for several hours, the fruit "punch" had mellowed just a little.)

This well-executed, 70% Madagascar dark chocolate bar offered a bright and fruit-forward rocket ride with no off notes. This would be fun to add to a chocolate tasting flight to illustrate naturally occurring fruit notes in a two-ingredient chocolate bar.

Maker's tasting notes: "Madagascar beans are famous for being full of bright, cherry notes. This bar packs a fruity punch."

Ingredients: Cacao, Organic cane sugar

Allergen-related information: "Processed in a facility that uses milk powder and nuts."

White Label Chocolate - Madagascar Bejofo Estate 68% (bar) - Sept. 17, 2022

Chocolate of the Day

White Label Chocolate 

Madagascar Bejofo Estate 68% (bar)

Good + - Good ++

Weight: 1.15 oz. (32.5 g.) / 2.3 oz. (65 g.) in total bar

Calories: 178 calories (estimate) in 1/2 bar

Cost: $10.00 (estimate) for 1 bar

Purchased from: Mutari Chocolate, Santa Cruz, CA

Welcome to Day #5 of Chocolate and Madagascar Theme Week.

I bought today's Madagascar Bejofo Estate 68% (bar) from bean-to-bar maker Mutari Chocolate shortly before they were forced to close their retail location in Santa Cruz, CA, and to move due to a multi-block urban renovation project. In this shop they offered bars, confections and drinking chocolates. (I am hoping they find a new retail space close-by soon.)

The Akesson Plantation, Bejofo Estate--located in the Sambirano Valley region in northwest Madagascar--produces Trinitario and Criollo varieties of cacao. 

Aroma notes for this bar included: very subtle, caramel, cocoa, and softly tart-sweet fruit (red berry, faint tangerine).

This bar had an even melt and smooth texture.

The flavor notes mirrored the aroma notes mentioned above (relatively smooth but subtly nuanced chocolate (cocoa), red fruit, and mild and sweet citrus). (Later re-tasting also yielded very mild and faint cream and malt notes along with more subdued red fruit.)

Toward the finish, I got a hint of red fruit jam with a dab of cream cheese on a lightly salted cracker among the chocolate notes. I experienced the rich flavor of fruit jam(s), yet, the chocolate was not too sugary sweet. (A welcome experience, particularly for a sub-70% cacao chocolate bar.)

Maker's tasting notes: Cocoa, raspberry, juicy citrus

Ingredients: Cacao bean, organic sugar, organic cocoa butter

Allergen-related information: (None found on packaging.)

Kaitxo - Madagascar Sambirano Valley 89% - Sept. 16, 2022

Chocolate of the Day

Kaitxo
Txoko - Madagascar Sambirano Valley 89% Dark (bar)
Good + - Good ++
Weight: 1.2 oz. (35 g.) / 2.4 oz. (70 g.) in total bar
Calories: 190 calories in 1/2 bar
Cost: $8.00 (estimate) for 1 bar
Purchased from: Bar and Cocoa, online order 

Welcome to Day #4 of Chocolate and Madagascar Theme Week.

Today's Txoko Madagascar Valle del Sambirano (Sambirano Valley) 89% dark chocolate (bar) was produced by Kaitxo (Balmaseda, Spain).

The company offers specialty coffees and chocolates. This bar was made from cacao grown in the Sambirano Valley area of the island nation of Madagascar, off the east coast of Africa.

Aroma notes for this bean-to-bar Madagascar chocolate included: dark chocolate (dark deep chocolate), and dark dried fruit (prune, raisin, fig, and faint apricot).

The chocolate had an even melt and texture.

Flavor notes included: dark chocolate (ultra-dark, almost unsweetened, chocolate brownie); slightly muted dried fruits (prune, raisin, faint apricot); faint earthy forest. A bit later: green (tea); very faint accent flavors of fine leather and tobacco; and very faint (partly imagined) warmed by-the-fire, tea with invisible spices.

Cacao varieties used to make this 3-ingredient chocolate included: Trinitario, Forastero and Criollo. Initially I tasted more Trinitario and Forastero varieties than I did Criollo. But, the very faint presence of bright but subtle stone fruit and some of the other lighter, top notes that surfaced later were akin to Criollo variety cacao.

The resulting chocolate flavors were well balanced and blended, and offered a surprising range of bolder chocolate and darker (almost roasted), relatively acidic fruit notes (think the caramelized edge of a well-done fruit cake that wasn't too sweet). 

The initial fruit acidity mellowed considerably after the sealed inner wrapper of this bar had been open for an hour or so to reveal more subtle notes. Do take your time with this bar and enjoy the skillful and subtle layering of flavors. 

One last observation: today's Madagascar bar (and yesterday's lower percentage sibling from the same maker) were judiciously sweetened with beet(root) sugar. This presented a very rare  opportunity to evaluate what beet sugar tasted like with fine chocolate. 

Most chocolate makers use (processed/refined) cane sugar "to avoid adding any flavor" to their chocolates. Less processed sugars (e.g. coconut palm sugar, brown sugar, honey, maple sugar and some beet sugars) retain more of their unique taste/properties, for better or worse.

 The subtle beetroot flavor used in this week's Kaitxo chocolate bars seemed to be a relatively good and interesting match with the single origin Sambirano Valley* cacao varieties. One more tiny overlay of barely detectable flavor in what was already the dance of the seven flavor veils. 

Maker's tasting notes: spices, red fruits and tobacco

Ingredients: Cocoa beans, (beetroot) sugar, cacao butter

Allergen-related information: May contain traces of peanuts, tree nuts, soy and milk.

*Surrounded by water, the large island nation of Madagascar has a warm, relatively moderate climate with rich volcanic soils in several areas. The northern part of the country (closer to the Equator) is well-suited for growing cacao. And the Sambirano Valley, located in northwest Madagascar not far from the coast, is known for its fine cacao.

 

Kaitxo - Txoko Madagascar Valle del Sambirano 67% (bar) - Sept. 15, 2022

Chocolate of the Day

Kaitxo
Txoko - Madagascar Sambirano Valley 67% (bar)
Good ++ 
Weight: 1.2 oz. (35 g.) / 2.4 oz. (70 g.) in total bar
Calories: 190 calories in 1/2 bar
Cost: $8.00 for 1 bar
Purchased from: Bar and Cocoa, online order 

Welcome to Day #3 of Chocolate and Madagascar Theme Week.

Today's Txoko Madagascar Valle del Sambirano 67% dark chocolate (bar) was produced by Kaitxo (Balmaseda, Spain), a specialty coffee and chocolate maker.

Aroma notes for this bean-to-bar Madagascar chocolate included: dark chocolate (dark chocolate mousse); soft sweet green; very faint marshmallow; subtle caramel; barely detectable fruit (faint, diffuse banana/plantain with mild red berry jelly); almost floral; and very faint, sweetly aromatic tobacco.

The chocolate had even melt and texture with a very slight astringency/graininess--that seemed to disappear after several bites.

Flavor notes included: dark chocolate (dark chocolate mousse, ganache); slightly muted bright red fruit (red currant, cherry); pleasant, very faint earth; and very light tobacco. 

Cacao varieties used to make this chocolate included: Trinitario, Forastero and Criollo. While there are plenty of hybrids of these available, including all three in one chocolate is not necessarily the norm. The resulting chocolate flavors were well balanced and blended and offered an agreeable, complex range of bold and subtle notes.

Chocolates with less than 70% cacao content can taste too sweet. (Too much sugar can mask flavors.) Happily, this was not the case with this bar. There were enough flavors from the above mentioned cacao varieties to shine through.

I admired the well-executed complexity and subtle layers of (aroma and) flavor. And I enjoyed the sweet red fruit and other notes that unfurled in subtle, almost three-dimensional ways in this 67% cacao chocolate. Very enjoyable bar.

Ingredients: Cocoa beans, sugar, cacao butter

Allergen-related information: May contain traces of peanuts, tree nuts, soy and milk.

 

Beyond Good - Madagascar Pure Dark 80% Cocoa (bar) - Sept. 14, 2022

Chocolate of the Day

Beyond Good
Madagascar Organic Pure Dark Chocolate 80% Cocoa (bar)
Good + - Good ++
Weight: 1.32 oz. (37.5 g.) / 2.64 oz. (75 g.) in total bar
Calories: 225 calories in 1/2 bar
Cost: $3.99 for 1 bar
Purchased from: New Leaf Community Markets, Half Moon Bay, CA

Welcome to Day #2 of Chocolate and Madagascar Theme Week. 

Today's Beyond Good Organic Madagascar Pure Dark 80% Cocoa (bar) was distributed by Madecasse LLC (Brooklyn, NY). 

As with yesterday' 92% single origin Madagascar bar from the same company, the cacao was grown in Madagascar and made into chocolate in Madagascar, allowing more money to stay in the country of origin. 

Aroma and flavor notes for this ultra-dark bar included: green botanical (sweet green, tree sap/syrup) dark, acidic/tart stone and dried fruits (prune, fig, candied citrus), ultra-dark chocolate blender-ized with prune-orange marmalade). Later, into the finish, the acidity mellowed and there were fainter, diffuse fruit (plum, lighter tropical (tart-sweet mango), very faint goji berry), and faint green forest.

Texturally, this chocolate had an even, smooth melt and a very slight granular mouthfeel.

The fruit acidity level was relatively high (higher than the darker, 92% version of this bar featured yesterday), the level of bitterness was balanced and not too high. 

Created from only four ingredients, this dark chocolate captured lots of flavors cultivated and  developed in Madagascar, where cacao was grown, fermented, dried and made into chocolate.

Beyond Good pure dark chocolates illustrate what made "in-country" chocolate can be: complex and interesting chocolate to taste and explore, with a much simplified supply chain, where cacao farmers reap more of the proceeds.

Ingredients: Organic cocoa beans, organic cane sugar, organic cocoa butter, organic sunflower lecithin (emulsifier).

Allergen-related information: "May contain traces of milk and tree nuts." Gluten free, soy free, vegan. 

Beyond Good - Madagascar Pure Dark Chocolate 92% Cocoa (bar) - Sept. 13, 2022

Chocolate of the Day

Beyond Good
Madagascar Organic Pure Dark Chocolate 92% Cocoa (bar)
Good ++ - Good +++
Weight: 1.32 oz. (37.5 g.) / 2.64 oz. (75 g.) in total bar
Calories: 240 calories in 1/2 bar
Cost: $3.99 for 1 bar
Purchased from: New Leaf Community Markets, Half Moon Bay, CA

Welcome to Day #1 of Chocolate and Madagascar Theme Week. It's with much delight that I return to single origin chocolates this week, including a few made "in country" (in Madagascar), where the cacao was grown.

Today's Beyond Good Organic Madagascar Pure Dark 92% Cocoa (bar) was distributed by Madecasse LLC (Brooklyn, NY). 

The cacao used to make this single origin bar was grown in Madagascar and made into chocolate in Madagascar, allowing more money to stay in the country of origin. This sounds simple, but Madecasse has worked hard over the years to optimize this model--one that is still an exception in the chocolate industry. Typically the supply chain involves more third parties (collectors, exporters, importers, etc.), and less money goes to farmers. 

Aroma notes for this ultra-dark bar included: subtle, rich, sweet root (cooked sweet beet and yam), dark chocolate mousse cake, faint diffuse fruit (light tropical, mango), faint fresh green forest and/or wood, and faint nut and seed.

Texturally, this chocolate had a smooth melt; and it had a very slight granular astringency.

Flavor notes for this wondrously complex, balanced, and slightly acidic dark chocolate included a range of muted dark, dried, and brighter background fruit notes. And it had a relatively low, balanced bitterness level (for a 92%er). 

When I say complex, I mean this chocolate qualifies for a virtual travel experience. A better description for this chocolate might be a tropical-forest-in-a-bar. It evoked green, botanical, dried fruit (mango, North American pawpaws, sapote, fig, very light tangerine), light spicy nut fruit and fig cake, sweet wood, light earth, warm spice, and fresh mineral water spring notes...

...And those are just the notes I was able to put a name to, after tasting and re-tasting small squares of this bar. Other flavor and fruit notes came and went so quickly that I couldn't identify them. All were interesting and well within the enjoyable zone. 

Created from only four ingredients, this dark chocolate seemed to capture so much of the terroir and origin flavors where it was made, in the large island nation of Madagascar, off the East Coast of Africa. 

Today's Beyond Good pure dark chocolate illustrated what made "in-country" chocolate can be: great chocolate to taste and explore, with a much simplified supply chain, where cacao farmers reap more of the proceeds.

Ingredients: Organic cocoa beans, organic cane sugar, organic cocoa butter, organic sunflower lecithin (emulsifier).

Allergen-related information: "May contain traces of milk and tree nuts." Gluten free, soy free, vegan. 

Spinnaker Chocolate - Gianduja Chocolate Hazelnut Spread - Sept. 12, 2022

Chocolate of the Day

Spinnaker Chocolate

Gianduja Chocolate Hazelnut Spread

Good +

Weight: 1.27 oz. (36 g.) / 9 oz. (255 g.) in total jar

Calories: 210 calories in 2 TB serving

Cost: $16.00 (free shipping as part of larger order) for 1 jar

Purchased from: Spinnaker Chocolate, online order

Welcome to Day #14 of Chocolate and Nuts Theme Week. 

Today's Gianduja Chocolate Hazelnut Spread was from Spinnaker Chocolate (Seattle, WA). The company also offers a line of single origin (bean to bar) chocolate bars.

Aroma notes included chocolate, nuts and very faint cereal and oat.

Texturally, this spread was similar to thick, nutty chocolate frosting. The creamy paste (that held tiny bits of oat (oat flour) and hazelnut) was made using Spinnaker's dark oat-based milk chocolate. 

I could envision using this oat-hazelnut chocolate spread as frosting between cake layers, atop cupcakes, or between layers of ice cream (or dairy-free equivalent frozen desserts, parfait style). Or, it could be eaten with oatmeal, or plain--perhaps as part of a small vegan dessert plate.

The oat flour component cushioned the sweetness level a bit. It was not too sweet (thank you). But, it also (similar to dairy and other nut milks when blended with chocolate items) muted the chocolate and hazelnut notes. 

I admire chocolate makers who venture into spreadable chocolate. There are always trade-offs to be made with spreads to maintain the desired texture and flavors over time. 

Today's gianduja* was made with a short list of ingredients--without preservatives or artificial ingredients--and provided an opportunity to try an oat milk chocolate version of a classic gianduja chocolate and hazelnut. spread.

Ingredients: Dark oat milk chocolate (cacao bean, organic cane sugar, oat flour, cocoa butter), blanched hazelnuts, organic coconut oil, sunflower lecithin, sea salt flakes.

Allergen-related information: Contains: coconut, hazelnut. Processed in a facility that uses milk powder and nuts. 

Note: the oats (oat flour) used to make this Spinnaker bar may or may not be gluten free.

*According to a Wikipedia entry from several years ago, the word gianduja that has ties to the Piedmont region of northern Italy (where some of the best hazelnuts in the world are grown).

Gianduja, is a "carnival and marionette (puppet) character who represents the archtypical Piedmontese, a native of the Italian region where hazelnut confectionery is common." Gianduja is also represented as one of the masks in the Italian commedia dell'arte.