Friday, September 16, 2022

Kaitxo - Txoko Madagascar Valle del Sambirano 67% (bar) - Sept. 15, 2022

Chocolate of the Day

Kaitxo
Txoko - Madagascar Sambirano Valley 67% (bar)
Good ++ 
Weight: 1.2 oz. (35 g.) / 2.4 oz. (70 g.) in total bar
Calories: 190 calories in 1/2 bar
Cost: $8.00 for 1 bar
Purchased from: Bar and Cocoa, online order 

Welcome to Day #3 of Chocolate and Madagascar Theme Week.

Today's Txoko Madagascar Valle del Sambirano 67% dark chocolate (bar) was produced by Kaitxo (Balmaseda, Spain), a specialty coffee and chocolate maker.

Aroma notes for this bean-to-bar Madagascar chocolate included: dark chocolate (dark chocolate mousse); soft sweet green; very faint marshmallow; subtle caramel; barely detectable fruit (faint, diffuse banana/plantain with mild red berry jelly); almost floral; and very faint, sweetly aromatic tobacco.

The chocolate had even melt and texture with a very slight astringency/graininess--that seemed to disappear after several bites.

Flavor notes included: dark chocolate (dark chocolate mousse, ganache); slightly muted bright red fruit (red currant, cherry); pleasant, very faint earth; and very light tobacco. 

Cacao varieties used to make this chocolate included: Trinitario, Forastero and Criollo. While there are plenty of hybrids of these available, including all three in one chocolate is not necessarily the norm. The resulting chocolate flavors were well balanced and blended and offered an agreeable, complex range of bold and subtle notes.

Chocolates with less than 70% cacao content can taste too sweet. (Too much sugar can mask flavors.) Happily, this was not the case with this bar. There were enough flavors from the above mentioned cacao varieties to shine through.

I admired the well-executed complexity and subtle layers of (aroma and) flavor. And I enjoyed the sweet red fruit and other notes that unfurled in subtle, almost three-dimensional ways in this 67% cacao chocolate. Very enjoyable bar.

Ingredients: Cocoa beans, sugar, cacao butter

Allergen-related information: May contain traces of peanuts, tree nuts, soy and milk.

 

Thursday, September 15, 2022

Beyond Good - Madagascar Pure Dark 80% Cocoa (bar) - Sept. 14, 2022

Chocolate of the Day

Beyond Good
Madagascar Organic Pure Dark Chocolate 80% Cocoa (bar)
Good + - Good ++
Weight: 1.32 oz. (37.5 g.) / 2.64 oz. (75 g.) in total bar
Calories: 225 calories in 1/2 bar
Cost: $3.99 for 1 bar
Purchased from: New Leaf Community Markets, Half Moon Bay, CA

Welcome to Day #2 of Chocolate and Madagascar Theme Week. 

Today's Beyond Good Organic Madagascar Pure Dark 80% Cocoa (bar) was distributed by Madecasse LLC (Brooklyn, NY). 

As with yesterday' 92% single origin Madagascar bar from the same company, the cacao was grown in Madagascar and made into chocolate in Madagascar, allowing more money to stay in the country of origin. 

Aroma and flavor notes for this ultra-dark bar included: green botanical (sweet green, tree sap/syrup) dark, acidic/tart stone and dried fruits (prune, fig, candied citrus), ultra-dark chocolate blender-ized with prune-orange marmalade). Later, into the finish, the acidity mellowed and there were fainter, diffuse fruit (plum, lighter tropical (tart-sweet mango), very faint goji berry), and faint green forest.

Texturally, this chocolate had an even, smooth melt and a very slight granular mouthfeel.

The fruit acidity level was relatively high (higher than the darker, 92% version of this bar featured yesterday), the level of bitterness was balanced and not too high. 

Created from only four ingredients, this dark chocolate captured lots of flavors cultivated and  developed in Madagascar, where cacao was grown, fermented, dried and made into chocolate.

Beyond Good pure dark chocolates illustrate what made "in-country" chocolate can be: complex and interesting chocolate to taste and explore, with a much simplified supply chain, where cacao farmers reap more of the proceeds.

Ingredients: Organic cocoa beans, organic cane sugar, organic cocoa butter, organic sunflower lecithin (emulsifier).

Allergen-related information: "May contain traces of milk and tree nuts." Gluten free, soy free, vegan. 

Tuesday, September 13, 2022

Beyond Good - Madagascar Pure Dark Chocolate 92% Cocoa (bar) - Sept. 13, 2022

Chocolate of the Day

Beyond Good
Madagascar Organic Pure Dark Chocolate 92% Cocoa (bar)
Good ++ - Good +++
Weight: 1.32 oz. (37.5 g.) / 2.64 oz. (75 g.) in total bar
Calories: 240 calories in 1/2 bar
Cost: $3.99 for 1 bar
Purchased from: New Leaf Community Markets, Half Moon Bay, CA

Welcome to Day #1 of Chocolate and Madagascar Theme Week. It's with much delight that I return to single origin chocolates this week, including a few made "in country" (in Madagascar), where the cacao was grown.

Today's Beyond Good Organic Madagascar Pure Dark 92% Cocoa (bar) was distributed by Madecasse LLC (Brooklyn, NY). 

The cacao used to make this single origin bar was grown in Madagascar and made into chocolate in Madagascar, allowing more money to stay in the country of origin. This sounds simple, but Madecasse has worked hard over the years to optimize this model--one that is still an exception in the chocolate industry. Typically the supply chain involves more third parties (collectors, exporters, importers, etc.), and less money goes to farmers. 

Aroma notes for this ultra-dark bar included: subtle, rich, sweet root (cooked sweet beet and yam), dark chocolate mousse cake, faint diffuse fruit (light tropical, mango), faint fresh green forest and/or wood, and faint nut and seed.

Texturally, this chocolate had a smooth melt; and it had a very slight granular astringency.

Flavor notes for this wondrously complex, balanced, and slightly acidic dark chocolate included a range of muted dark, dried, and brighter background fruit notes. And it had a relatively low, balanced bitterness level (for a 92%er). 

When I say complex, I mean this chocolate qualifies for a virtual travel experience. A better description for this chocolate might be a tropical-forest-in-a-bar. It evoked green, botanical, dried fruit (mango, North American pawpaws, sapote, fig, very light tangerine), light spicy nut fruit and fig cake, sweet wood, light earth, warm spice, and fresh mineral water spring notes...

...And those are just the notes I was able to put a name to, after tasting and re-tasting small squares of this bar. Other flavor and fruit notes came and went so quickly that I couldn't identify them. All were interesting and well within the enjoyable zone. 

Created from only four ingredients, this dark chocolate seemed to capture so much of the terroir and origin flavors where it was made, in the large island nation of Madagascar, off the East Coast of Africa. 

Today's Beyond Good pure dark chocolate illustrated what made "in-country" chocolate can be: great chocolate to taste and explore, with a much simplified supply chain, where cacao farmers reap more of the proceeds.

Ingredients: Organic cocoa beans, organic cane sugar, organic cocoa butter, organic sunflower lecithin (emulsifier).

Allergen-related information: "May contain traces of milk and tree nuts." Gluten free, soy free, vegan. 

Spinnaker Chocolate - Gianduja Chocolate Hazelnut Spread - Sept. 12, 2022

Chocolate of the Day

Spinnaker Chocolate
Gianduja Chocolate Hazelnut Spread
Good +
Weight: 1.27 oz. (36 g.) / 9 oz. (255 g.) in total jar
Calories: 210 calories in 2 TB serving
Cost: $16.00 (free shipping as part of larger order) for 1 jar
Purchased from: Spinnaker Chocolate, online order

Welcome to Day #14 of Chocolate and Nuts Theme Week. 

Today's Gianduja Chocolate Hazelnut Spread was from Spinnaker Chocolate (Seattle, WA). The company also offers a line of single origin (bean to bar) chocolate bars.

Aroma notes included chocolate, nuts and very faint cereal and oat.

Texturally, this spread was similar to thick, nutty chocolate frosting. The creamy paste (that held tiny bits of oat (oat flour) and hazelnut) was made using Spinnaker's dark oat-based milk chocolate. 

I could envision using this oat-hazelnut chocolate spread as frosting between cake layers, atop cupcakes, or between layers of ice cream (or dairy-free equivalent frozen desserts, parfait style). Or, it could be eaten with oatmeal, or plain--perhaps as part of a small vegan dessert plate.

The oat flour component cushioned the sweetness level a bit. It was not too sweet (thank you). But, it also (similar to dairy and other nut milks when blended with chocolate items) muted the chocolate and hazelnut notes. 

I admire chocolate makers who venture into spreadable chocolate. There are always trade-offs to be made with spreads to maintain the desired texture and flavors over time. 

Today's gianduja* was made with a short list of ingredients--without preservatives or artificial ingredients--and provided an opportunity to try an oat milk chocolate version of a classic gianduja chocolate and hazelnut. spread.

Ingredients: Dark oat milk chocolate (cacao bean, organic cane sugar, oat flour, cocoa butter), blanched hazelnuts, organic coconut oil, sunflower lecithin, sea salt flakes.

Allergen-related information: Contains: coconut, hazelnut. Processed in a facility that uses milk powder and nuts. 

Note: the oats (oat flour) used to make this Spinnaker bar may or may not be gluten free.

*According to a Wikipedia entry from several years ago, the word gianduja that has ties to the Piedmont region of northern Italy (where some of the best hazelnuts in the world are grown).

Gianduja, is a "carnival and marionette (puppet) character who represents the archtypical Piedmontese, a native of the Italian region where hazelnut confectionery is common." Gianduja is also represented as one of the masks in the Italian commedia dell'arte.

Sunday, September 11, 2022

Endangered Species Chocolate - Fudgy Peanut Butter + Milk Chocolate 48% Cocoa (bar) - Sept. 11, 2022

Chocolate of the Day

Endangered Species Chocolate, LLC
Fudgy Peanut Butter + Milk Chocolate 48% Cocoa (bar)
Good ++
Weight: 1.5 oz. (42.5 g.) / 3 oz. (85 g.) in total bar
Calories: 255 calories in 1/2 bar
Cost: $3.99 for 1 bar
Purchased from: New Leaf Community Markets, Half Moon Bay, CA

Welcome to Day #13 of Chocolate and Nuts Theme Week, featuring a variety of chocolate and nut blends. Today's milk chocolate was paired with peanut butter.* 

Today also marks the 16th anniversary of Chocolate Banquet, where I've written about eating a different chocolate every day, for 16 years now. Thank you all for being along for the ride.

And speaking of worthy occasions, today's Fudgy Peanut Butter + Milk Chocolate 48% Cocoa (bar) was from Endangered Species Chocolate, LLC (Indianapolis, IN). 

Aroma notes for this filled bar included: rich, authentic dark chocolate fudge brownie and peanut butter.

Soft, silky and fudgey chocolate squares--fused together to form the bar--held pockets of smooth, substantial peanut butter + white chocolate filling. 

These naturally complementary chocolate and peanut flavors blended nicely. The choice of darker cacao and a focus on concentrated, authentic peanut flavors (vs. what could have been more sugar), resulted in a filled bar that was flavorful, satisfying and not too sugary sweet (thank you!)

Last, but not least, the caribou was the animal of concern featured on the packaging of today's bar. Endangered Species Chocolate has a long tradition of highlighting animals that are endangered or threatened on their chocolate bars; and the company has donated part of their net profits (currently 10%) to non-profit and conservation organizations involved in saving and protecting wildlife. 

Among the facts shared about this amazing, large deer: "Caribou migrate over 3,000 miles per year--more than any other land mammal." That's a long way to travel around in arctic weather for one's daily 10 pounds of lichen (the caribou food of choice). If I'm fortunate, I may get to see some caribou later this year along with some Northern Lights (and chocolates).

Ingredients: Milk chocolate (chocolate liquor, milk, cane sugar, cocoa butter, soy lecithin, vanilla), white chocolate (organic cane sugar, fair trade certified organic cocoa butter, organic whole milk powder), dry roasted blanched peanuts, organic peanut flour, sea salt.

Allergen-related information: Contains: Milk, peanut, soy. Produced on equipment that also processes products containing tree nuts.

*Yes, I realize peanuts are legumes and not true nuts. (For that matter cacao "beans" are really seeds; almonds, pistachios and cashews are drupes; and I'm not a true nut, even though I've been accused of leaning that direction.) 

Saturday, September 10, 2022

Oregon Orchard - Marionberry Chocolate Hazelnuts - Sept. 10, 2022

Chocolate of the Day

Oregon Orchard
Marionberry Chocolate Hazelnuts
OK+ - Good 
Weight: 1 oz. (30 g.) / 6 oz. (170 g.) in total package
Calories: 180 calories in 1 serving 
Cost: $3.49 for 1 package
Purchased from: Grocery Outlet Bargain Market, Palo Alto, CA

Welcome to Day #12 of Chocolate and Nuts Theme Week. 

As is often the case, chocolate weeks that feature popular ingredient partners--such as nuts, coffee, vanilla or fruit--often result in a theme week that spills over into a multi-week-long journey. Chocolate time.

Today's Oregon Orchard Marionberry Chocolate Hazelnuts were distributed by Hazelnut Growers of Oregon (Donald, OR). The company works with local hazelnut farmers to help develop and get products that include hazelnuts to market.*

The aroma notes for these glossy, generously-sized rounds included: sweet berry candy and/or confectioners glazed berry doughnuts.

The thick, soft purple milk chocolate coating fell softly away from its core when bitten into--revealing a whole hazelnut inside. But, try as I might, I found it hard to pick up the delicate flavor of these naturally subtle, sweet nuts.

The blend of flavors sounded promising. However, these sweet, lilac purple-hued confections fell a bit short of my hopes. The dominant flavors: sugar, fat/oil, and manufactured berry, made it difficult to taste the (milk) chocolate or hazelnut. A missed opportunity I think, given the food memories I have of being in Oregon and tasting hazelnuts, fresh berries, dairy and craft chocolate.

Ingredients: Hazelnuts, milk chocolate [(sugar, unsweetened chocolate, milk, cocoa butter), sunflower lecithin, vanillin, gum arabic], coating (sugar, palm kernel and palm oil and cocoa butter, whey, nonfat milk, cream, sunflower lecithin, natural flavor, vanilla), marionberry flavor [(soybean oil, benzyl alcohol and natural flavors), purple color (triacetin, medium chain triglycerides, FD&C Blue 1 Lake, Red 40 Lake, Red 3 and TBHQ), gum arabic, confectioners glaze]. 

Allergen-related information: Contains: tree nuts. Processed in a facility that uses milk, soy, wheat and other tree nuts.

*Co-ops that work with farmers can be very beneficial. E.g., Tillamook Creamery in Oregon has brought delicious ice cream flavors, cheese and other dairy offerings to local markets in California where I live. And co-ops in cacao growing countries help add value and international market reach, resulting in many fine chocolates in the US, Europe, and elsewhere. My hope is that Hazelnut Growers of Oregon might explore updated and/or higher end consumer offerings (without artificial colors or ingredients if possible). 

SkinnyDipped - Almond Sea Salt Dark Chocolate (bar) - Sept. 9, 2022

Chocolate of the Day

SkinnyDipped
Almond Sea Salt Dark Chocolate (bar)
Good + - Good ++
Weight: 1.06 oz. (30 g.) / 2.8 oz. (79 g.) in total bar
Calories: 140 calories in 1 serving  
Cost: $1.99 for 1 bar
Purchased from: Grocery Outlet Bargain Market, Palo Alto, CA

Welcome to Day #11 of Chocolate and Nuts Theme Week.

Today's SkinnyDipped Almond Sea Salt Dark Chocolate (bar) was distributed by Wild Things Snacks, Inc. (Seattle, WA).

Aroma notes included: dark chocolate, almond butter, and very faint light woody nut notes.

I liked the variably sized almond pieces (flecks to small hunks). They added textural interest and allowed more almond flavor to shine through the smooth dark chocolate.

This bar was sweetened with a combination of cane sugar and allulose. The maker offered this description: "Allulose is a sugar found in raisins and figs. It tastes like sugar but doesn't metabolize like it in your body."* (I did not detect anything off or different about the sweetness, other than it was not too sweet. Thank you!)

A judicious dose of sea salt added an appealing saline sparkle, and to keep things interesting.

Ingredients: Unsweetened chocolate, almonds, cane sugar, allulose, cocoa butter, milk fat, sea salt, sunflower lecithin, soy lecithin, vanilla.

Allergen-related information: Contains: almond, milk, soy. "Produced on equipment that processes peanuts, wheat, and other tree nuts."

*Allulose helped lower the carbohydrate and sugar count in this chocolate. "Total Sugars" in 1 serving was listed as 3 grams. "Total Carbs (12 g.) - Dietary Fiber (4 g.) - Allulose (exact number not listed) = 5.5 Net Carbs Per Serving."

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