Friday, October 8, 2021

Tosier - Maya Mountain, Belize 90% Dark Chocolate (bar) - Oct. 8, 2021

Chocolate of the Day

Tosier Chocolatemaker
Maya Mountain Belize 90% Rich Dark Chocolate (bar)
Good ++
Weight: 1.05 oz. (30 g.) / 2.1 oz. (60 g.) in total bar
Calories: 148.8 calories in 1/2 bar
Cost: $10.00 (+ summer shipping) for 1 bar
Purchased from: Bar and Cocoa, online order

Welcome to Day #2 of Chocolate and Central America Theme Week, featuring chocolates made from cacao grown in Belize, Costa Rica, Guatemala, Honduras and Nicaragua.

The Toledo District in southern Belize is to chocolate what Napa is to wine in California. That was my take-away after visiting Southern Belize years ago. (This visit included a Jeep ride to visit Maya Mountain Cacao,* a small co-op working directly with Mayan cacao farmers.)

Today's Maya Mountain Belize 90% Rich Dark Chocolate (bar) was made by Tosier Chocolatemaker (Suffolk, U.K.). The cacao (2019 Harvest, Batch 23219) used to craft this micro-batch bar was carefully gathered from farmers.

The complex but relatively subtle aroma notes for this bar included (in order of appearance): molasses, and concentrated fruit (berries, figs). After being open for a few minutes this mellowed and evolved into faint, fleeting vegetable (green squash, baked potato), then back to dark chocolate with faint spice and fruit compote (plum and peach), and faint tart-green (oxalis), followed by faint flicker of green tea.

Flavor notes included rich dark chocolate (fudge) with subtle loamy earth and very faint (barely there) mushroom. There was a slight astringent, dry graininess or chalkiness to the texture. This textural attribute softened into a smoother, more buttery mouthfeel toward the end. 

If I'd eaten the whole bar I might have discovered this perceived dryness was either a fleeting quality, more present in one part of the bar, or it may have shape-shifted away altogether. But, I only sampled two, adjacent, rectangular pieces...

...One hour later, I re-sampled this relatively smooth (low in bitterness, acidity) 90% ultra-dark bar--from the other end of the bar. And while still present, this dry mouthfeel was less noticeable. And, it morphed into a smoother finish more quickly. I'm a fan of re-tasting chocolate if possible. Truth can be fluid when it comes to flavors and taste and one's palette, even after very short periods of time.

Maker's tasting notes: "Redcurrant and stone fruit with a long buttery finish." ("Light roast, 60 hours grinding in stone melanger with refiner.")

Ingredients: Cocoa beans, organic unrefined cane sugar, ethically sourced cocoa butter

*Maya Mountain Cacao (MMC), majority-owned by Uncommon Cacao, is located in the Toledo District, inland from the Caribbean coast. When I visited there it had been in operation for a few years and was already producing fine cacao that had caught the attention of many specialty chocolate makers producing single origin dark chocolate. 

MMC were (and still are) working/trading directly with indigenous Maya farmers and helping to incent and support production of high-quality beans. Most of the approximately 350 farmers are small land-holders. This cacao was "intercropped with hard wood, fruit trees, banana, coconut and mango."

The hilly Maya Mountain area surrounding this organization (and its centralized fermentery) is an undulation of interesting shapes and multi-story building-sized mounds, covered by vegetation. 

From the air, looking down on the area, it's easy to imagine old dwellings/cities/temples built by ancient Maya and related, Central American civilizations that might lie beneath the jungle. In fact, this is partly true. I spoke to someone who remembered growing up in the area and remembers playing among historic ruins. "It was just something we took for granted. It was no big deal," he told me.


 

LetterPress Chocolate - Hacienda Azul, Costa Rica 70% Dark Chocolate (bar) - Oct. 7, 2021

Chocolate of the Day

LetterPress Chocolate
Hacienda Azul, Costa Rica 70% Dark Chocolate (bar)
Good ++ - Good +++
Weight: 1 oz. (28.3 g.) / 2 oz. (57 g.) in total bar
Calories: 156 calories (estimate) in 1/2 bar 
Cost: $10.00 for 1 bar (+ summer shipping)
Purchased from: Bar and Cocoa, online order

Welcome to Day #4 of Chocolate and Central America Theme Week, featuring chocolates from Belize, Costa Rica, Guatemala, Honduras and Nicaragua.

Today's Hacienda Azul, Costa Rica 70% Dark Chocolate (bar) was made by LetterPress Chocolate (Los Angeles, CA). 

The cacao used to craft this two-ingredient bar was from a small farm named Hacienda Azul,* "located in the rural town of Turrialba in the province of Cartago a couple hours east of Costa Rica's capital, San Jose."

Aroma notes included (in order of appearance): bread, green tea, subtle bright fruit (light goji berry), faint tart green (oxalis), and very faint sweet white grape/golden raisin.

This well-tempered bar had an even melt and smooth texture and mouthfeel.

Flavor notes included Boston brown bread (molasses, raisin); subtle, diffuse tropical fruit, and true chocolate (dark chocolate cake, chocolate torte, dark chocolate pudding) that lingered into the finish.

Maker's tasting notes: "chocolate sunflower seeds"

Ingredients: Organic cacao beans, organic unrefined cane sugar

Allergen-related information: "Processed in a facility that also processes nuts and dairy" (Made with certified organic ingredients.) (Parve, Kosher LA)

*Hacienda Azul roughly translates into English as a blue house/dwelling on a plantation or estate. The Hacienda is "managed by the Zeuner family and employs 8 people full time." Also of note is the nearby Centro Agronomico Tropical de Investigacion (CATIE) university of agriculture. CATIE "has provided 5 different clones to the farm. The (cacao) beans are washed prior to drying and we (LetterPress) have found this cacao fascinating by its versatility."




Wednesday, October 6, 2021

Fresco - O'Payo Profundo Nicaragua 70% Recipe 272 - Dark Roast, Long Conche (bar) - Oct. 6, 2021

Chocolate of the Day

Fresco Artisan Chocolate
O'Payo Profundo Nicaragua 70% Recipe 272 - Dark Roast, Long Conche (bar)
Good ++ - Good +++
Weight: .9 oz. (25 g.) / 1.8 oz. (50 g.) in total bar
Calories: 136.5 calories in 1/2 bar
Cost: Part of a $57 chocolate tasting (that included 5 different bars)
Purchased from: Fresco Artisan Chocolate/Chocolopolis.com

Welcome to Day #5 of Fresco Chocolate Tasting Series (of five different bars), and Day #3 of Chocolate and Central America Theme Week.

Today's O'Payo* Profundo Nicaragua 70% Recipe 272 - Dark Roast, Long Conche (bar) was made by Fresco Artisan Chocolate (Lynden, WA).

The aroma notes of this bar included subtle, balanced bitter, roasted notes with a very faint, fleeting green floral. Any "bitterness" receded quickly--and was cushioned by light, diffuse fruit sweetness, and very faint tart green (oxalis).

The melt and mouthfeel were very satisfying: fudge-y, creamy smooth, almost nut buttery. (This was true for all three Fresco Nicaragua 70% bars in this series.)

Flavor notes included a tart-sweet creaminess, intertwined with flavorful true chocolate (fudge brownie, dark chocolate torte) with accelerating red fruit, jam (strawberry soda with clean mineral water then strawberry milkshake). 

This well-executed, flavorful bar was bright, well-balanced and smooth without being boring or over-roasted. Not every dark roast bar lands in the Goldilocks zone--where flavors are optimally developed without tipping over into the over-roasted zone, where they tend to disappear. For this kind of success you need high-quality cacao, careful fermentation and a skilled and thoughtful chocolate maker.

Fresco's chief chocolate maker, Rob Anderson, described his dark roast profile this way: "...flavor peaks and valleys softened to a melodic harmony."

Maker's general tasting notes for this O'Payo Profundo Nicaragua cacao: "...naturally occurring notes of spice, floral and nuts...incredibly flavorful..." 

Ingredients: Organic cocoa beans, organic cane sugar, cocoa butter. organic cocoa butter. ??

Allergen-related information: "Free from gluten, dairy, nuts, soy"

*O'Payo Profundo Nicaragua cacao  is "an organic fine cocoa variety (grown in) the Waslala municipality, within the Basawas Natural Reserve in the northern mountains of Nicaragua." (Fresco maker, Rob Anderson, also mentioned: "O'Payo is a farmer's name.") 

"Profundo" may refer the the relatively long fermentation time for this cacao. (Anderson also worked with producer Ingemann Fine Cocoa in Nicaragua to obtain these single origin cacao beans.)

 

Tuesday, October 5, 2021

Fresco - O'Payo Profundo Nicaragua 70% Recipe 271 - Medium Roast, Medium Conche (bar) - Oct. 5, 2021

Chocolate of the Day

Fresco Artisan Chocolate
O'Payo Profundo Nicaragua 70% Recipe 271 - Medium Roast, Medium Conche (bar)
Good ++ - Good +++
Weight: .9 oz. (25 g.) / 1.8 oz. (50 g.) in total bar
Calories: 136.5 calories in 1/2 bar
Cost: Part of a $57 chocolate tasting (that included 5 different bars)
Purchased from: Fresco Artisan Chocolate/Chocolopolis.com

Welcome to Day #4 of Fresco Chocolate Tasting Series (of five different bars), and Day #2 of Chocolate and Central America Theme Week.

Today's O'Payo* Profundo Nicaragua 70% Recipe 271 - Medium Roast, Medium Conche (bar) was made by Fresco Artisan Chocolate (Lynden, WA). 

This (Recipe 271) bar the second of three O'Payo Nicaragua 70% bars--each with different roast and conche profiles--featured this week. (All three were initially sampled, side-by-side, in a recent online Chocolopolis.com + Fresco chocolate tasting, 3 days ago.)

The subtle aroma notes of this bar included (in order of appearance) very faint balanced savory (lightly smoked sea salt); green (green tea, light seed and mild nut); very light, faint (diffuse) fruit; and faint tart-green notes.

The melt and mouthfeel for this (and, happily, almost all Fresco) chocolate were very satisfying: fudge-y, creamy smooth, almost buttery.

Flavor notes included (in order of appearance): bright, warm, tart-sweetness (tart sweet, uniform blend of peach, nectarine, ripe persimmon, kiwi), cream, intertwined with a strong through current of true dark chocolate (flavorful fudge brownie, dark chocolate torte with a tiny pinch of warm spice and coffee) and with fleeting very faint tart-green.

Maker's general tasting notes for this cacao: "...naturally occurring notes of spice, floral and nuts...incredibly flavorful..."

Ingredients: Organic cocoa beans, organic cane sugar, cocoa butter. organic cocoa butter

Allergen-related information: "Free from gluten, dairy, nuts, soy"

*O'Payo Profundo Nicaragua cacao  is "an organic fine cocoa variety (grown in) the Waslala municipality, within the Basawas Natural Reserve in the northern mountains of Nicaragua." (Fresco maker, Rob Anderson, also mentioned: "O'Payo is a farmer's name.") 

"Profundo" may refer the the relatively long fermentation time for this cacao. (Anderson also worked with producer Ingemann Fine Cocoa in Nicaragua to obtain these single origin cacao beans.)


 

Monday, October 4, 2021

Fresco - O'Payo Profundo Nicaragua 70% Recipe 270 - Light Roast, Subtle Conche - Oct. 4, 2021

Chocolate of the Day

Fresco Artisan Chocolate
O'Payo Profundo Nicaragua 70% Recipe 270 - Light Roast, Subtle Conche (bar)
Good ++ - Good +++
Weight: .9 oz. (25 g.) / 1.8 oz. (50 g.) in total bar
Calories: 136.5 calories in 1/2 bar
Cost: Part of a $57 chocolate tasting (that included 5 different bars)
Purchased from: Fresco Artisan Chocolate/Chocolopolis.com

Welcome to Day #3 of Fresco Chocolate Tasting Series (of five different bars), and Day #1 of Chocolate and Central America Theme Week.

Today's O'Payo* Profundo Nicaragua 70% Recipe 270 - Light Roast, Subtle Conche (bar) was made by Fresco Artisan Chocolate (Lynden, WA).

The subtle aroma notes of this bar included (in order of appearance) very faint balanced savory/smoke; very light, roasted wood with very faint tannin; and faint tart-green notes.

The melt and mouthfeel were very satisfying: fudge-y, creamy smooth, almost buttery.

Flavor notes included a tart-sweet creaminess, intertwined with true chocolate (fudge brownie, dark chocolate torte) with very faint tart-green.

Maker's general tasting notes for O'Payo Profundo Nicaragua cacao: "...naturally occurring notes of spice, floral and nuts...incredibly flavorful..."

Ingredients: Organic cocoa beans, organic cane sugar, cocoa butter. organic cocoa butter.

Allergen-related information: "Free from gluten, dairy, nuts, soy"

*Regarding the cacao source, O'Payo Profundo (Nicaragua), "O'Payo" is a farmer's name. "Profundo" may refer the the relatively long fermentation time for this cacao. (Fresco also worked with producer Ingemann Fine Cocoa in Nicaragua to obtain these Nicaraguan cacao beans.)


Sunday, October 3, 2021

Fresco - Madagascar 70% Recipe 290 Medium Roast, Medium Conche (bar) - Oct. 2, 2021

Chocolate of the Day

Fresco Artisan Chocolate
Madagascar 70% Recipe 290 Medium Roast, Medium Conche (bar)
Good  ++ -  Good +++
Weight: .9 oz. (25 g.) / 1.8 oz. (50 g.) in total bar
Calories: 136.5 calories in 1/2 bar
Cost: (Part of a $57 chocolate tasting for 5 different bars)
Purchased from: Fresco Artisan Chocolate/Chocolopolis tasting, online order

Welcome to Day #2 in a series of five different single origin bars obtained as part of a New Origin Fresco Chocolate Tasting. (Thank you to Rob and Amy at Fresco Chocolate and Lauren Adler at Chocolopolis.com for the great remote tasting experience.)

Today's new Madagascar 70% (Batch 21-454) Medium Roast, Medium Conche* (bar) was made by Fresco Chocolate (Lynden, WA) . The beans used to make this bar were from the (Bertil) Akesson plantation in the Sambirano Valley of Madagascar--a region known for its flavorful cacao.

Aroma notes (in order of appearance) for this chocolate included faint green, floral, green stalks, a faint, flickering bitter dark chocolate note, bread and butter, cooked rice, diffuse faint fruit (peach, persimmon, lemon), brown sugar, and barely there tart green (oxalis). The texture and mouthfeel were very satisfying and buttery smooth.

Flavor notes included rich, sweet dark chocolate (dark chocolate torte), and, most significantly, a blooming of bright, tart fruit: a blend of sweet, round, white wine grape juice and golden raisin mixed with pink grapefruit and red berry. (Other fruit notes present in later re-tastings: cherry, orange, mango and ripe, sweet pineapple.) All these fruit notes presented a jump up from (contrast with) the relatively subdued aroma notes. 

Bright red berry and citrus notes are often associated with chocolate made with Madagascar cacao; but today's Fresco bar presented a festive yet sophisticated variation on this theme.

I enjoyed tasting this newly unveiled, rich, flavorful and well-executed dark chocolate bar from a company that recently celebrated receipt of their 50th International award for their chocolate.

Ingredients: Cocoa beans, cane sugar, cocoa butter

Allergen-related information: "Free from: gluten, dairy, nuts, soy"

*Conching follows the initial cacao grinding process. Fresco describes conching as "heat, motion, aeration and time producing chocolate's final flavor." The maker notes: "adjusting these variables can produce dramatically different flavors."  (Thank you to Rob at Fresco for allowing us to experience this in your chocolate line-up, geared to edify even the most seasoned of chocolate palettes.) 

Fresco Chocolate - Chuao Venezuela 72% dark chocolate (bar) - Oct. 2, 2021

Chocolate of the Day

Fresco Artisan Chocolate
Chuao Venezuela 72% Blended Roast, Subtle Conche dark chocolate (bar)
Good  ++ -  Good +++
Weight: .9 oz. (25 g.) / 1.8 oz. (50 g.) in total bar
Calories: 136.5 calories in 1/2 bar
Cost: (Part of a $57 chocolate tasting for 5 different bars)
Purchased from: Fresco Artisan Chocolate/Chocolopolis tasting, online order

Welcome to Day #1 in a series of five different single origin bars obtained from a New Origin Fresco Chocolate Tasting. (Thank you to Rob and Amy at Fresco Chocolate and Lauren Adler at Chocolopolis.com for the great remote tasting experience.)

Today's new Chuao Venezuela 72% (Batch 21-437) Blended Roast, Subtle Conche* (bar) was made by Fresco Chocolate (Lynden, WA) . The cacao used was from the Empresa Campesina de Chuao (workers co-op) in the remote and storied village of Chuao in northern Venezuela. 

Subtle aroma notes (in order of appearance) for this chocolate included faint fruit, green (oxalis (sour grass, wood sorrel), succulent), warm spice, brown sugar and molasses. The texture and mouthfeel were satisfying and smooth.

The choice of blending more than one roast profile ("blended roast") seemed to expand the dynamic range/depth in the taste and gave it a bit more punch along with a barely there hint of roasted coffee and nut. Flavor notes included rich, sweet dark chocolate (dark chocolate pudding, chocolate torte), bread, cream, faint fruit and nut, and a sustained course of true dark chocolate (deep, dark chocolate torte). This dark chocolate had a balanced tart, sweet fruit acidity (red berry, cherry) that lingered into a chocolate-y finish. 

This was a rich, flavorful and well-executed dark chocolate from a company that recently celebrated receipt of their 50th International award for their chocolate.

Ingredients: Cocoa beans, cane sugar, cocoa butter

Allergen-related information: "Free from: gluten, dairy, nuts, soy"

*Conching follows the initial cacao grinding process. Fresco describes conching as "heat, motion, aeration and time producing chocolate's final flavor." The maker notes: "adjusting these variables can produce dramatically different flavors."  (Yes, and thank you for allowing us to experience this in your chocolate line-up geared to educate even the most seasoned of chocolate palettes.)

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