Friday, September 10, 2021

Chocolate Story - Venezuela 70% cocoa Grand Cru (bar) - Sept. 10, 2021

Chocolate of the Day

Manufaktura Czekolady Sp.
(Chocolate Story)
Venezuela 70% cocoa Grand Cru (bar)
Good + - Good ++
Weight: .88 oz. (25 g.) / 1.76 oz. (50 g.) in total bar
Calories: 149.25 calories in 1/2 bar
Cost: $8.50 (plus summer shipping) for 1 bar
Purchased from: Bar and Cocoa, online order

Welcome to Day #2 of Chocolate and Venezuela Theme Week.

Today's Venezuela 70% cocoa Grand Cru (bar) was made by the team at Manufaktura Czekolody Sp. (Chocolate Story) in Poland. 

Two friends and chocolate lovers, Krzysziek Stypulkowski and Tomek Sienkiewicz, left the Information Technology (IT) industry to follow their passion and catch the craft chocolate wave; and they were the first to offer single origin, bean-to-bar chocolate(s) in Poland in 2009.

The scent(s) (a large part of taste) in this bar mellowed--after the inner foil (sealed) package had been open awhile. Aroma notes included (in order of appearance) started with slightly bitter, well-roasted nuts (a mix of peanut, walnut, pecan, almond) and dried fruits (faint dried black fig, date, dark berry). 

Two minutes later the aroma softened a bit into honey fig and red berry; and, after another minute, cherry. (In this sense today's Venezuela chocolate was similar to a bold, complex, tannin-rich, red wine that needs to breathe a bit after opening.)

The melt was even, thick, slow and satisfying, with a stiff, very smooth slab of nut butter, mouthfeel. (I enjoyed this texture.)

Flavor notes included red grapes, fleeting cherry, ultra-dark (well done) brownie, and balanced bitter, fire-roasted nut notes. 

Chocolate Story tasting notes: walnuts, cherry, chokeberry and redcurrant.

Ingredients: "Roasted cocoa beans from Venezuela (70%), sugar, cocoa solids; 70% minimum."

Allergen-related information: "May contain milk, nuts."


Thursday, September 9, 2021

Duffy's Chocolate - Venezuela Ocumare 55% (bar) - Sept. 9, 2021

Chocolate of the Day

Duffy's 
Venezuela Ocumare 55% (bar)
Good + - Good ++
Weight: 1.05 oz. (30 g.) / 2.11 oz. (60 g.) in total bar
Calories: 181.2 calories in 1/2 bar
Cost: $9.50 (+ summer shipping) for 1 bar
Purchased from: Bar and Cocoa, online order 

Welcome to Day #1 of Chocolate and Venezuela Theme Week.

Today's Venezuela Ocumare 55% (bar) was made by Duffy's* Chocolate (in Cleethorpes, England). 

The man behind the company name is Gerald "Duffy" Sheardown (a former motorsport(s) engineer/mechanic and team manager who shifted to making bean-to-bar chocolate and engaging in direct trade with cacao farmers in far-off lands closer to the Equator).

This bar was made with fine (Criollo variety) cacao from the Ocumare region (valley) in Venezuela. (U.S.-based Bar and Cocoa notes: "Ocumare refers to a village, a region and a cacao blend.")

The aroma for this Venezuela cacao bar leaned toward dessert notes and included (in order of appearance) creamy milk chocolate, sweet caramel and chocolate ice cream.

The chocolate's texture was smooth and creamy, with a very slight (fruit) astringency.
The flavor was sweet milk chocolate--with caramel and cake notes extending into the finish. 

Duffy's tasting notes: "A velvet-smooth mix of almonds, bananas and raspberry jam."

Ingredients: Cocoa beans, organic cane sugar, cocoa butter and whole milk powder.

Allergy-related information: Contains milk powder; soya free; gluten free.

*Duffy's is also known as Red Star Chocolate Ltd

Wednesday, September 8, 2021

Tosier Chocolatemaker - 70% Tumaco, Colombia (bar) - Sept. 8, 2021

Chocolate of the Day

Tosier Chocolatemaker
Tumaco, Colombia 70% (cacao) (bar)
Good ++
Weight: 2.1 oz. (60 g.) in total bar
Calories: 329.4 calories in 1 bar
Cost: $10.00 (+ summer shipping) for 1 bar
Purchased from: Bar and Cocoa, online order

Welcome to Day #9 of Chocolate and Colombia Theme Week.

Today's Tumaco, Colombia 70% dark chocolate (bar) was from Tosier Chocolatemaker, a bean-to-bar, small batch maker located in Gipping Valley, Suffolk, UK.

The company makes vegan, microbatch, craft chocolate bars using "single origin cocoa."

Tumaco is on the west/Pacific coast side of Colombia. Crops grown in this area (many by subsistence farmers) include coconuts, plaintains, palm oil and cacao. The "indigenous variety" cacao used to make this bar was "intercropped (in a biodiverse setting) with timber, fruit trees, corn and beans."

Colombia also produces a large amount of coffee for export. Tosier also offers a stoneground 70% dark bar with single estate Colombian coffee.

Today's bar was similar to some other Colombia bars this week. It had a very subtle aroma with sweet dark chocolate, faint tart green (oxalis) and citrus notes and had a smooth texture with a slight astringency.

The flavor notes (in order of appearance) included tart green herb (wood sorrel, sour grass, oxalis), citrus (light, tart, acidic sweet lemon, green apple), refreshing green (light green tea with a very faint green floral) sweet molasses and toffee, fleeting earth, and barely there pleasant savory and coffee.

Tosier flavour and production notes read: "Caramel, nuts and molasses" and "light roast, 60 hours grinding in stone melanger with refiner."

Ingredients: "Cocoa beans, organic unrefined cane sugar, ethically sourced cocoa butter"

Allergen-related information: "May contain traces of nuts." (Plant-based with no added gluten, dairy, additives or palm oil.)

Arete - Colombia Tumaco 56% dark milk chocolate - Sept. 8, 2021

Chocolate of the Day

Arete Fine Chocolate
Colombia Tumaco 56% Dark Milk Chocolate (bar)
Good +++
Weight: 1.15 oz. (32.5 g.) / 2.3 oz. (65 g.) in total bar
Calories: 178 calories (estimate) in 1/2 bar 
Cost: $ missing information
Purchased from: missing information

Welcome to Day #7 of Chocolate and Colombia Theme Week.

Today's Colombia Tumaco 56% Dark Milk Chocolate (bar) was made by David and Leslie Senk of Arete Fine Chocolate.
 
Arete closed their doors of their factory/shop in Tennessee in March 2020. I am hoping they might re-open one day and/or at least return to chocolate making in the future. The couple (formerly located in California) have earned a well-deserved reputation for great chocolate  

I have been hanging on to this Arete (full disclosure, now-expired) Colombia Tumaco bar for a special occasion like this week (Colombia Theme Week and my birthday week).

This was a delicious dark milk chocolate bar, from the luxurious melt and smooth, creamy texture to the complex and subtle flavors.

It had very subtle and balanced flavor notes that included faint fruit (muffled apricot, plum jams), green herb (very light licorice infused green tea), very light earth, chocolate gingerbread molasses, freshly baked sourdough bread with butter and peach jam.

Was it still good? Yes, it was! Well executed and well-tempered chocolate like this tends to hold up (if stored properly in a cool, dark place). Thank you Arete!

Ingredients: Cocoa beans (Colombia, Tumaco), organic whole milk powder, organic cane sugar, organic cocoa butter.

Allergen-related information: "May contain traces of peanuts, tree nuts, dairy, wheat, soy due to the use of shared equipment."

Monday, September 6, 2021

Disidente - Don Miqueas 75% Colombian Craft Chocolate (bar) - Sept. 6, 2021

Chocolate of the Day

Disidente 
Colombian Cacao Taxonomy (Manufactured by El Colaboratorio)
Don Miqueas 75% Colombian dark chocolate (bar)
Good ++ 
Weight: 1.41 oz. (40 g.) in total bar
Calories: 191 calories in 1 bar
Cost: $6.50 for 1 bar (+ summer shipping)
Purchased from: Bar and Cocoa, online order

Welcome to Day #7 of Chocolate and Colombia Theme Week.

Today's (Cacao) Disidente Don Miqueas 75% cacao Colombian craft chocolate (bar) was manufactured by El Colaboratorio (Bogota, Colombia). 

Disidente creates bean-to-bar chocolates that help spotlight the agricultural biodiversity of Colombia. They use Colombian-grown cacao(s)--sourced from cacao co-operatives and organizations in different regions of Colombia.

The cacao used to craft today's bar was from Arauca (in northeastern Colombia in the Orinoco River basin), in a cacao growing area with a "great farming tradition pioneered by (a gentleman named) Don Miqueas."

The banquet of aroma notes (in order they appeared) included: chocolate, green tea, goji berry, faint tart (almost citrusy) sweet pineapple, candied orange in brown sugar, chocolate (light brownie, chocolate cookie), more fruit (fruit salad with apple, tropical fruits and maybe an orchid or two). very faint graham cracker with warm spice and floral (vanilla). Later (after tasting and going back to smell again) there was also a faint, light, buttery seed oil note.

The texture of this bar was uniform and relatively smooth and had a very faint astringency (feeling of very slight tart dryness on the palette (what you might experience with a cocktail of oxalis + hibiscus + pink grapefruit + lemon).

The flavor was balanced, relatively subtle and, like the aroma, enjoyably complex. It sounds like I'm describing Criollo variety cacao, but this week's Disidente bars had a bit more tart green, light citrusy aspect to them; and the fruit notes were not as soft subtle as the stone fruit (think peach) that are often associated with Criollo. This week's chocolates were more like a blend of Trinitario and Criollo. 

Flavor notes included chocolate and sweet, acidic and very slightly savory fruit (fresh ripe tomato, tomato soup); cream/milk; faint cookie (dark chocolate with brown sugar and molasses), and fleeting, very faint earth (loam, mushroom). A trace of the tart green fruit and floral (oxalis* with a whisp of green apricot) lingered a bit in the finish.

Once again, as with other similar bars this week, this Don Miqueas had a lot of subtle complexity and flavor(s). A 75% cacao choice (rather than 70% cacao) seemed like a good choice as there was still plenty of natural sweetness.

Disidente tasting notes: "Distinguished by its complex nose full of white flowers. The palette is brimming with tension with a citric acidity, and hints of kumquat and grapefruit. Light and delicate, and ending in a mineral and balanced residual."

Ingredients: "Cocoa beans, organic cane sugar, cocoa butter."

Allergen-related information: (No information listed on label.)

*Oxalis is a plant that contains oxalic acid--a naturally occurring compound found in many plants, including greens (notably: spinach, rhubarb and beet greens), cacao (and other seeds), and nuts. Edible forms of "wild" plants like wood sorrels,"sour grass" and other forms of oxalis have a tart, almost lemony green flavor. This flavor can sometimes be detected in some dark chocolates and may be observed/described as a combination of green and/or citrus note(s) in chocolate tastings. 

The acid levels (acetic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, (possibly malic acid), oxalic acid and tannins (tannic acid)) were just enough to keep things interesting, and not so high that only a few would appreciate the result. But, as in wines and other foods and beverages, this aspect is subject to personal preference. (This is similar to drinking a red wine that has picked up a lot of tannin in oak barrels. Some will love it, but too much oak and not enough fruit may narrow your fan base.)

  

Sunday, September 5, 2021

Disidente, Colombian Craft Chocolate - Mango (bar) - Sept. 5, 2021

Chocolate of the Day

(Cacao) Disidente 
Colombian Cacao Taxonomy (Manufactured by El Colaboratorio)
Mango 70% Colombian dark chocolate (bar)
Good ++
Weight: 1.41 oz. (40 g.) in total bar
Calories: 191 calories in 1 bar
Cost: $6.50 for 1 bar (+ summer shipping)
Purchased from: Bar and Cocoa, online order

Welcome to Day #6 of Chocolate and Colombia Theme Week.

Today's Disidente 70% cacao Colombian craft chocolate Mango (bar) was manufactured by El Colaboratorio (Bogota, Colombia). 

(Cacao) Disidente creates bean-to-bar chocolates that highlight the agricultural biodiversity of Colombia. They use Colombian-grown cacao(s)--sourced from cacao co-operatives and organizations in different regions of Colombia. And some bars, like today's, include regional fruits and other inclusions.

This chocolate delivered a skillfully executed, complementary blend of dark chocolate and dried, sweet mango pieces. 

The underlying dark chocolate (from what I could tell over the fruit) had very light green and oxalis,* nut and seed, and dark chocolate notes. This base chocolate was just dark and bold enough to be the perfect foil for the sweet mango--that had notes of ripe peach, sweet orange, sweet lime, and maybe a touch of ripe pineapple and cacao pulp (and a fleeting, slightly resinous note). A good mango can steal the show.

Ingredients: "Cocoa beans, organic cane sugar, cocoa butter" (and mango).

Allergen-related information: (No information listed on label.)

*Oxalis is a plant that contains oxalic acid--a naturally occurring compound found in many plants, including greens (notably: spinach, rhubarb and beet greens), cacao (and other seeds), and nuts. Edible forms of "wild" plants like wood sorrels,"sour grass" and other forms of oxalis have a tart, almost lemony green flavor. This flavor can sometimes be detected in some dark chocolates and may be observed/described as a combination of green and/or citrus note(s) in chocolate tastings.

  

Saturday, September 4, 2021

Tabal Chocolate - Ka Colombia 80% Cacao (bar) - Sept. 4, 2021

Chocolate of the Day

Tabal Chocolate
Ka Two-Ingredient Chocolate (bar)
Good + - Good ++
Weight: 1.5 oz. (42.5 g.) / 3 oz. (85 g.) in total bar
Calories: 241.5 calories in 1/2 bar
Cost: $12.00 for 1 bar
Purchased from: Chocolate Covered, San Francisco, CA

Welcome to Day #5 of Chocolate and Colombia Theme Week.

Today's Ka Two-Ingredient, 80% Cacao bar was made from directly traded cacao, from bean-to-bar by Tabal Chocolate (Wauwatosa, Wisconsin).

Aroma notes for this Colombian single source bar were subtle and complex and included (in order of appearance): true chocolate, oxalis (light green, citrus), green floral (geranium), very faint fleeting latex, roasted cacao, seed butter muffin, cocoa, barely detectable savory (leather, smoke) and fresh green (green tea).

Flavor notes included (in order of appearance): chocolate, green floral (orchid), graham cracker, very faint dried fruit (green mango), barely detectable, fleeting light earth (light, loamy soil) and nut (green walnut), and marshmallow (mallow, malva plant). The bar had a subtle, balanced bitterness and mild oxalic acidity.*

The texture was uniform (generally smooth) with a slight astringency (a light, grainy dry feeling in the mouth similar to what one might experience with newly ripened persimmon (fruit) and red wine aged in oak barrels (likely to contain astringent tannic acid(s)), followed by a very calcium-rich, mineral water chaser.

Ingredients: Single origin cacao, organic cane sugar

Allergen-related information: "Made in a facility that also processes tree nuts and dairy." "Gluten free, vegan, soy free...Kosher parve."

*Note: I've mentioned oxalic acid in describing several bars this week (and this year). The more chocolate I've tasted, the easier to recognize the often subtle, slightly green, tart and citrusy/lemony aroma and flavor as the naturally occurring substance/acid present in many greens (notably spinach, rhubarb and beet greens), cacao, nuts and seeds. 

If you've tasted purslane, wood sorrel or sour grass, you may remember a green, slight lemony-tart flavor that is often associated with higher oxalate content. The oxalate level varies (even for the same plant and variety) and can be affected by growing conditions; and it's not always detectable by taste.

More about the different oxalates (soluble and insoluble, and why you might care) may be covered in future posts. 


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