Friday, March 19, 2021

Christopher Elbow - Madagascar 70% dark (bar) - Mar. 19, 2021

Chocolate of the Day

Christopher Elbow Chocolates
Madagascar 70% dark bar
Good ++
Weight: 1.15 oz. (32.5 g.) / 2.3 oz. (65 g.) in total bar
Calories: 160 calories in 1/2 bar
Cost: $9.95 (+ shipping) for 1 bar
Purchased from: Christopher Elbow, online order

Welcome to Day #8 of Chocolate and Madagascar Theme Week.

Today's Madagascar 70% bar was from Christopher Elbow Chocolates (Saint Louis, MO).

The organic cacao used to make this bar was from the Akesson Estate in the Sambirano Valley in northwest Madagascar, known for great cacao. 

The initial aroma: sweet white, aromatic dessert wine (Gewurztraminer) and very faint maple syrup, followed by a slight shift toward brown sugar and fruit notes. 

The flavor notes were more complex. Traces of the (above mentioned) sweet aroma notes bloomed into tart sweet fruit (white grapes, nectarine, tart cherry, faint citrus), chocolate, faint earth and cream. There was a slight (persimmon) astringency; and a honeyed white grape/fruit note lightly lingered into the finish. 

Ingredients: Organic cacao, organic cane sugar, cacao butter

 

Thursday, March 18, 2021

Firetree Chocolate - Madagscar Sambirano Valley 84% Cocoa (bar) - Mar. 18, 2021

Chocolate of the Day

Firetree Chocolate Limited
Single Estate Madagascar Sambirano Valley 84% Cacao (bar)
Good ++ - Good +++
Weight: .88 oz. (25 g.) in total bar
Calories: 147 calories in 1 bar
Cost: $4.00 for 1 bar
Purchased from: Bar and Cocoa, online order

Welcome to Day #7 of Chocolate and Madagascar Theme Week.

Today's Madagascar Sambirano Valley 84% Cocoa (bar) was made by Firetree Chocolate Limited (Peterborough, U.K.). The company offers a line of single origin bars made with cacao directly traded (with farmers).

Volcanoes and chocolate?
Firetree describes their lineup as "rich volcanic chocolates." Several of their bars are crafted from cacao grown on South Pacific islands that are part of (or are close to) the "ring of fire," known for its volcanic and seismic activity. (This "ring" also extends over to the Americas bordering the Pacific and Nazca plates, and near the origins of cacao.)

How do volcanoes relate to chocolate? When absorbed over time into soils, volcanic lava, ash and debris can contribute key plant nutrients like potassium, phosphorus, magnesium and iron--needed to cultivate crops and trees, including cacao trees. (Some of the best cacao and coffee we enjoy are grown in volcanic soils.)

Historically, volcanic activity has existed on every continent. Madagascar, a large island nation off eastern Africa has volcano-related enriched soils, from activity 90 million years ago. 

Back to today's bar...

Many of the Madagascar chocolate bars featured this week have had delightfully complex aromas that shift and shimmer a bit as well--including today's Firetree bar.

The first whiff of today's bar had notes of aromatic red berry (musk* strawberry, raspberry) with a fleeting hint of tropical fruit (passion fruit). A few minutes later there was a tiny shift to fermented red berry (tart-sweet strawberry-raspberry fruit vinegar). And after a few more minutes, an earthy red fruit note, followed by true chocolate (raspberry + strawberry fudge brownie) notes. What a ride! Thank you.

Chocolate lovers' brains have learned to link the smell of chocolate with sugar. Ultra-dark bars (over 80% cacao and with "only" 20% sugar or less) often retain an aroma with implied sweetness, causing the brain to anticipate sugar in the first bite. Some chocolate customers suffer a disconnect when they taste darker chocolates for the first time. Some want their "missing" sugar back, especially if they're new to 80%+ bars.

So, with the above facts in mind, I am extra grateful to Firetree for making an 84% ultra-dark bar using this bright Madagascan cacao. The cacao's natural brightness and fruitiness made this a balanced treasure chest; the flavors were almost as fruity and fun as the aroma.

The flavors mirrored the layered aroma notes above, and included deep, rich and faintly earthy dark chocolate, and ripe, tart-sweet raspberry and faint strawberry. The finish lingered a bit, with the red fruit notes heading a bit more toward cherry. I highly recommend holding a piece of this chocolate in your mouth for awhile, to enjoy the warm, blooming bouquet of naturally tart-sweet fruit flavors.

Firetree's tasting notes read as follows: "Raspberry and rich red fruit tones create a zesty character. To enjoy fully, take time to let the flavours develop on the palate."

Ingredients: Cocoa mass, unrefined sugar, cocoa butter, emulsifier: sunflower lecithin.
Allergen notes: "Dairy free. Nut free factory. Kosher. Halal. Suitable for vegans."

*The musk strawberry (Fragaria moschata) is native to Europe. It is also known as bubbleberry, hautbois strawberry (France), and fragola di bosco (Italy). This aromatic strawberry (rarely seen in the U.S.) has notes of strawberry, pineapple and raspberry. Its flavor has also been described as "naturally flavored bubble gum."


Wednesday, March 17, 2021

Solstice Chocolate - Madagascar 70% Sambirano (bar) - Mar. 17, 2021

Chocolate of the Day

Solstice Chocolate, Inc.
Madagascar 70% Sambirano (bar)
Good ++
Weight: 1.15 oz. (32.5 g.) / 2.3 oz. (65 g.) in total bar
Calories: 155 calories in 1/2 bar
Cost: $9.00 (+ shipping) for 1 bar
Purchased from: Solstice Chocolate, online order

Welcome to Day #6 of Chocolate and Madagascar Theme Week.

Today's gluten-free, vegan Madagascar 70% Sambirano (bar) was from Solstice Chocolate, Inc. (Salt Lake City, UT).

The cacao that the Solstice team used to make this bar came from the Bejofo Estate, an organic cacao plantation in the Sambirano Valley in northwest Madagascar. The maker's description: "...Cacao grown here has notes of citrus and berries, which gives our chocolate its bright, fruity quality." 

This region and this cacao flavor profile will sound familiar to those who have been reading about other Madagascar bars featured this week.

Today's three-ingredient* Solstice dark bar had an aroma with bright, warm chocolate notes: grape/raisin, brown sugar/light caramel, rum when the sealed package was first opened. (After being opened for an hour, there was a slight shift that included mild red berry (goji berry) and light, fragrant oolong tea notes.)

The texture was smooth, with an almost creamy mouthfeel. 

The flavor overall was full of the expected tart, tangy-sweet, acidic fruit (Vitamin C) brightness that one often finds with Madagascar single origin bars. The sunny, natural sweetness lingered, along with cream and very faint earth notes, into the finish. 

As noted with some other 70%+ cacao Madagascar bars this week, this characteristic bright,  fruity sweet, warm flavor profile may fool you into thinking you're eating a chocolate with more sugar (that is, a 60% or 65% cacao bar). I even found myself double checking the packaging. (Yes, it did contain 70% cacao.)

*Ingredients: "Cacao bean, organic cane sugar, cocoa butter"

Tuesday, March 16, 2021

Slitti - Madagascar 75% Cacao Fine Selection (bar) - Mar. 16, 2021

Chocolate of the Day

Slitti
Madagascar 75% Cacao Fine Selection (bar)
Good + - Good ++
Weight: .88 oz. (25 g.) / 1.76 oz. (50 g.) in total bar
Calories: 142.5 calories in 1/2 bar
Cost: $6.95 for 1 bar
Purchased from: Chocosphere.com, online order 

Welcome to Day #5 of Chocolate and Madagascar Theme Week.

Today's Madagascar 75% Cacao Fine Selection (bar) was made in Italy by Slitti Cacao Pregiati (Monsummano Terme, Tuscany, Italy).

Most dark chocolate bars I've tasted from Italy (and other countries) have uniform, almost bland, roasted dark chocolate flavor. This is the understandable result when taking high volumes of different cacao(s) from different places (often West Africa), with the goal of blending them into one consistent flavor profile over time. Some bars have some added vanilla, adding a little lift. But, the bars are fairly predictable. So I was curious to see what this single origin Madagascar bar might taste like.

This gluten-free chocolate began with an aroma of uniform baked fudge brownie and chocolate cake...what I'd normally expect.

But then this classic chocolate aroma was quickly joined by some welcome complexity: balanced fermenting cacao fruit (sweet vinegar, brown sugar, fruit (peaches, plums, apricots, cacao pulp)); warm spice (cinnamon); very faint, fleeting green floral (imagined vanilla) and baked sweet bread notes. 

The shift--from a scent with uniform chocolate brownie/chocolate cake to one with more noticeable fruit nuances--evolved over a minute or two, after the inner, sealed packaging was opened. 

The fruit notes were within the range I associate with Madagascar (Sambirano Valley) cacao-based chocolate(s). (Madagascar cacao is often described as having tart-sweet citrus fruit and berry notes, but may also include concentrated/dried stone fruits such as peach, nectarine, plum, and apricot notes, depending on the cacao varieties and fermentation techniques used.)

In fact, I found myself anticipating tart fruit notes the minute I opened this dark bar, so perhaps I was bound to find them. (This is why blind, side-by-side chocolate tastings can be more enlightening; they help reduce biases we all have--even though these same expectations, based on memories, also make us smile as we encounter "old friends" in tasting experiences.)

The flavor of this bar was uniform, roasted, smooth dark chocolate, with a touch of fruit acidity--initially less citrus (orange/tangerine) and more stewed stone fruits mentioned above with a few red currants popped in for good measure. On the third time I re-tasted this bar there was also a very faint, fleeting dark chocolate + spice/herb note (caraway, rye bread) note.

The chocolate was low in bitterness. It was relatively sweet for a 75% cacao chocolate; but some of that perceived sweetness likely came from natural fruit flavor from the cacao itself. And this chocolate had a clean, subtle chocolate-y finish.

Ingredients: "Cocoa mass Madagascar (Sambirano), sugar, cocoa butter (6%). (Cocoa min. 75%)"

Monday, March 15, 2021

Nuance Chocolate - Madagascar Sambirano Valley 70% Dark (bar) - Mar. 15, 2021

Chocolate of the Day

Nuance Chocolate Company
Single Origin Madagascar Sambirano Valley 2016 70% Pure Dark (bar)
Good ++ - Good +++
Weight: .97 oz. (27.5 g.) / 1.94 oz. (55 g.) in total bar
Calories: 150.5 calories for 1/2 bar
Cost: $8.50 (+ shipping) for 1 bar
Purchased from: Nuance Chocolate, online order

Welcome to Day #4 of Chocolate and Madagascar Theme Week.

Today's Single Origin Madagascar Sambirano Valley 2016 (Harvest) ("Batch 22591") 70% Pure Dark (bar) was made by Nuance Chocolate Company (Fort Collins, CO). 

Nuance produces a variety of small-batch, bean-to-bar chocolates (bars and confections). This single origin dark chocolate was made using a Trinitario (variety of) cacao grown in the lush Sambirano Valley in northwest Madagascar.

The aroma, flavor--and texture--of this chocolate all had a balanced smoothness and sophistication that even Goldilocks* would be pleased with. There were no traces of dense darkness, earthiness or spiky surprises in this bar. It had a natural tart sweetness, but was not overly sour or bitter. It had a clean, crisp fruit/peaches and cream finish. It was just right.*

The chocolate had a "warm," true chocolate (hot chocolate, drinking chocolate) aroma and flavor, and an almost creamy, smooth texture. Most notably, it had a gentle wave of bright, tart-sweet fruit acidity (a blend of ripe, acidic citrus, faint ripe red berry, and concentrated stone fruits (nectarine, plum, apricot)). These acidic fruit flavor notes are very characteristic of Madagascan cacao.**

Nuance Chocolate's tasting notes read as follows: "Fascinating and sophisticated layers of flavor, with a long and satisfying finish. Brightly acidic fruit, in particular grapefruit and raspberry, with a backdrop of softer flavors like plum and apricot."

Ingredients: cacao, cane sugar, cocoa butter

*Goldilocks was a young girl in a fairy tale (or in an earlier version of the story in Europe, an older woman), who entered a home to try out the occupants' (a family of bears') furniture and porridge. During her larcenous visit, Goldilocks located items that were "just right" (not too hard, not too soft, not too hot, not too cold, etc.) that were to her liking. 

I do not advocate breaking into a bear's home. You're more likely to find grubs and honey (and trouble) there than chocolate anyway. 

Bears will eat chocolate but, like dogs, eating too much can make them quite ill. So, politely decline if they ask you for some. Humans can process the plant alkaloid theobromine (and smaller amount of caffeine), found in cocoa and chocolate; but many other animals cannot.

**These lovely citrus and other fruit flavors reminded me of cacao fruit. If you are traveling in Hawaii (the only U.S. state where you'll likely find cacao growing) or other tropical country within 20 degrees latitude of the Equator, do look for opportunities to try cacao, specifically the pulpy white cacao fruit.

If we could transport ourselves to the plantation where the Trinitario cacao used to make this bar was grown, and we broke open one of the cacao pods (fruits) to taste the ivory-colored fruit pulp surrounding the seeds (cacao beans), we'd find that the fruit has its own tart sweet fruit flavor that's a blend of many of the fruits referenced in today's description. 

Cacao fruit is bright, tart-sweet and delicious. The flavor(s) vary in intensity depending on the cacao variety and where it's growing. Citrus, watermelon, various tropical fruits (mango, mangosteen, pineapple), and many other fruit and floral descriptors, have been used to describe this exotic fruit that begins to ferment fairly quickly once harvested. 

Madagascan cacao seems to capture some of this cacao fruit essence better than some other origins.

Sunday, March 14, 2021

Fossa Chocolate - 70% Dark Mava Ottange Madagascar (bar) - Mar. 14, 2021

Chocolate of the Day

Fossa Chocolate Pte Ltd
70% Dark Mava Ottange Madagascar (bar)
Good ++ - Good +++
Weight: 1.76 oz. (50 g.) in total bar
Calories: 274 calories in 1 bar
Cost: $12.00 for 1 bar
Purchased from: Chocolate Covered, San Francisco, CA

Welcome to Day #3 of Chocolate and Madagascar Theme Week.

Today's 70% Dark Mava Ottange Madagascar (bar) was crafted by Fossa Chocolate in Singapore.

Fossa is known for small-batch chocolate(s) with different tea inclusions. (Their oolong tea infused bars are especially nice.) Almost all their offerings I've sampled have had a subtle sophistication about them.*

This chocolate was made using cacao from the Sambirano Valley area in northwestern Madagascar, a region known for its cacao. Most of the Madagascar bars this week share this same origin.**

The cacao beans in this bar were from the MAVA Plantation--that encompasses eight different farms, including the Ottange Farm.

The aroma of this vegan, gluten-free bar had a softly sweet, slightly fragrant (hot cocoa, hot drinking chocolate) with faint fruit, floral (neroli), spice, and almost undetectable green notes. 

The chocolate had a uniformly smooth melt and texture and was made using cacao from the MAVA Plantation that contains several different farms, including the Ottange Farm.

The Dance of the Seven Citrus Veils
The taste fulfilled on the promise hinted at in the aroma notes. It was as if I "heard" a dance party happening, on the other side of a set of large wooden doors. And, after the first bite of this chocolate, those doors were suddenly thrown open and I was invited to join the party. 

My senses were suddenly illuminated with a sweet-tart candied citrus peel brightness. Flavors shimmered and shifted around me within a bright hemisphere of light. These flavors were mostly within the citrus spectrum, including ripe tangerine, sweet orange, tangelo, Mandarin orange, Valencia orange, Navel orange and kumquat--and pure sunshine and sugar. 

It was hard to pin down the other more subtle flavor elements in the midst of the dance of a seven citrus veils. But they included a faint flickering of forest/earth and chocolate malted milk powder.

All this fun, from only two-ingredients: cacao and cane sugar. Except for the bright citrus headlights, this is one of the most civilized, and sweetest, Madagascar ride I've taken in a few years. The 70% cacao landed closer to a 60-65% cacao bar on my palette, in part due to its bright sweetness.

Fossa tasting notes read as follows: "orange, malt, roasted nuts."

Ingredients: Cacao, cane sugar

*Yes, that included Fossa's limited edition "Duck Shit" Dancong Tea Chocolate bar that had a faint, but balanced, grassy flavor note that recalled a marshy area where you might see ducks dabbling. (No actual duck contributions were involved in the making of this bar; so there's no need to be squeamish.)

**Decades ago, cacao from Bertil Akesson's family plantation launched many of the first Madagascar craft chocolate bars in the U.S. Akesson became one of the first well-respected suppliers to provision the new wave of new bean-to-bar makers with single origin beans. 

Other "made in country" bars/chocolates in Madagascar worthy of note include those from Chocolaterie Robert SA.

Beyond Good (formerly Madecasse), a cocoa and vanilla company with direct ties to Madagascar (based in Brooklyn, NY), was started in 2006 by two Peace Corps volunteers. Madecasse chocolate bars were some of the first "Madagascar" bars I can remember sampling when I started Chocolate Banquet in that same year.




Saturday, March 13, 2021

Michel Cluizel - Mangaro Noir 65% Madagascar (bar) - March 13, 2021

Chocolate of the Day

Michel Cluizel 
Mangaro Noir 65% Madagascar (bar)
Good + - Good ++
Weight: 1.23 oz. (35 g.) / 2.46 oz. (70 g.) in total bar
Calories: 199.4 calories in 1/2 bar
Cost: $7.99 for 1 bar 
Purchased from: Chocosphere.com, online order

Welcome to Day #8 of Chocolate and JKLM Theme Week, where I'm featuring chocolate items with flavors and origins that start with the letters J, K, L and/or M; and Day #2 of Chocolate and Madagascar Theme Week.

Today's Mangaro Noir 65% Madagascar (bar) was from Michel Cluizel (Damville, France). This chocolate was made using cacao from a single farm (Mangaro Plantation) located in northwest Madagascar, in the lush Sambirano River valley--a region known for its high-quality cacao (which is sometimes referred to as "green gold").

This chocolate had a complex and appealing aroma, especially for a 65% (sub-70%) cacao bar. Aroma notes included: dark chocolate, light honey, fruit and faint/fleeting green (tea, very faint chicle/rubber, forest) and light earth and roasted notes. 

The chocolate had a smooth melt and texture with little to no astringency.

Flavor notes included earthy dark chocolate, faint, fleeting (balanced) umami/savory fermented, and faint fruit (ripe citrus, tart sweet berry) and warm spice. There was a friendly amount of well-managed earthiness; that is, there were no jarring "dirt" or "loamy" spikes. 

A very subtle hint of authentic, slightly earthy vanilla pod rounded out this bouquet of flavors and added a bit of warmth and charm.

The finish was relatively short and clean, with only a trace of smooth, sweet chocolate remaining by the very end. 

Ingredients: "Fine cocoa from the Mangaro Plantation (in Madagascar), sugar, cocoa butter, Bourbon vanilla pod."

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